It was time for our sunset toast at the Temple of Athena. At the appointed hour, Jimmy shuttled us back up to Behramkale where we made a beeline on foot the rest of the way up to the tippy top. As we walked, we saw Alp flash by in a little pick-up laden with bottles of wine he had procured at Melen Winery specifically for this moment.
At the entrance, we filed through the turnstile. Alp had to smuggle in the wine, since it was not on the approved-to-bring-to-this-monument list. The cheese we had purchased on our return trip from Troy did not pose a problem.
The sky was, as it had been every day so far, crystal clear. Although there was a strong breeze at the top of the hill, it was not cold. The sun was slowly heading towards the horizon. Perfect timing to catch the show.
We draped ourselves along a ledge that overlooked the sea, beneath the columns of this exquisite temple. The view was sensational. The Aegean Sea stretched out before us, the Greek island of Lesbos lurking in the distance, six miles across the Bay of Edremit.
Alp realized he had forgotten the wine opener, so he called Jimmy to hoof it up from the bus. Everyone clapped when he arrived.
Using a large stone block as a table, we spread out our celebratory snack of cheese and wine.
Chris, our IT expert, had looked up on his smart phone (which was so smart it did everything but drive the bus) to research the myth of the Goddess Athena and stood in front of us to read it aloud.
The enormous Doric columns of Athena’s temple towered above us, a stunning sandstone contrast against the cobalt blue of the sky. We toasted Turkey, Alp, Jimmy, ourselves, and last, but not least, Athena.
After comparing the virtues of the various cheeses and wines, I wandered around beneath the temple, gazing up at its graceful columns and imagining how it must have looked back in 530 B.C.E. when it was first built.
At one time, beautifully carved friezes sat above the capitals of the columns, depicting mythical subjects such as centaurs, tritons, a sphinx, and other animals in various scenes. Much of the temple’s archaeological treasure has now been relocated, divided between the museums of Istanbul, Boston, and the Louvre. But the columns, the best part, were still here.
There was not enough time to explore the entire site, which included an amphitheater and other stone buildings. That was OK. Right now, just standing beneath the temple was enough.
As the sun set, we all marveled at the view and took time to really absorb where we were and reflect on life.
Then the authorities came to kick us out.
Unbeknownst to Alp, the closing time had changed, and we had to leave earlier than expected. But this did not dispel the magical mood. We s-l-o-w-l-y gathered our things, including the contraband wine, and picked our way among the rocky ground to the site’s exit. It didn’t really matter now anyway. The sun had already set.