Temple of Athena

It was time for our sunset toast at the Temple of Athena. At the appointed hour, Jimmy shuttled us back up to Behramkale where we made a beeline on foot the rest of the way up to the tippy top. As we walked, we saw Alp flash by in a little pick-up laden with bottles of wine he had procured at Melen Winery specifically for this moment.

At the entrance, we filed through the turnstile. Alp had to smuggle in the wine, since it was not on the approved-to-bring-to-this-monument list. The cheese we had purchased on our return trip from Troy did not pose a problem.

The sky was, as it had been every day so far, crystal clear. Although there was a strong breeze at the top of the hill, it was not cold. The sun was slowly heading towards the horizon. Perfect timing to catch the show.

We draped ourselves along a ledge that overlooked the sea, beneath the columns of this exquisite temple. The view was sensational. The Aegean Sea stretched out before us, the Greek island of Lesbos lurking in the distance, six miles across the Bay of Edremit.

Alp realized he had forgotten the wine opener, so he called Jimmy to hoof it up from the bus. Everyone clapped when he arrived.

Using a large stone block as a table, we spread out our celebratory snack of cheese and wine.

Chris, our IT expert, had looked up on his smart phone (which was so smart it did everything but drive the bus) to research the myth of the Goddess Athena and stood in front of us to read it aloud.

The enormous Doric columns of Athena’s temple towered above us, a stunning sandstone contrast against the cobalt blue of the sky. We toasted Turkey, Alp, Jimmy, ourselves, and last, but not least, Athena.

"Serefe!" to Athena!

After comparing the virtues of the various cheeses and wines, I wandered around beneath the temple, gazing up at its graceful columns and imagining how it must have looked back in 530 B.C.E. when it was first built.

At one time, beautifully carved friezes sat above the capitals of the columns, depicting mythical subjects such as centaurs, tritons, a sphinx, and other animals in various scenes. Much of the temple’s archaeological treasure has now been relocated, divided between the museums of Istanbul, Boston, and the Louvre. But the columns, the best part, were still here.

There was not enough time to explore the entire site, which included an amphitheater and other stone buildings. That was OK. Right now, just standing beneath the temple was enough.

As the sun set, we all marveled at the view and took time to really absorb where we were and reflect on life.

Then the authorities came to kick us out.

Unbeknownst to Alp, the closing time had changed, and we had to leave earlier than expected. But this did not dispel the magical mood. We s-l-o-w-l-y gathered our things, including the contraband wine, and picked our way among the rocky ground to the site’s exit. It didn’t really matter now anyway. The sun had already set.

Gino In the Aegean

Gino loves the water. On a past trip to Italy, I went for a hike leaving him to his splashing and diving. I returned an hour later to find him in the exact same spot; he had been diving over and over, trying to retrieve a round shiny object he’d seen glinting from the bottom.

Finally, he was able to snatch it and triumphantly held it high: a golden doubloon! No. It was a rusty, slightly crusty Euro.

But with or without buried treasure to seek, Gino can spend hours playing in the sea. He was having a good time here in Assos.

At the end of the canopy-covered quay lies a small beach. I spotted Gino at the end of a short dock lined with loungers, awaiting his turn to dip in.

Or was he just checking out that chick???

Gino in the Aegean

He-Man takes a break at the end of the jetty

Keep in mind this guy is almost 60!

After admiring Gino, my gaze went to horizon and that compelling blue light, just like you find in Greece

Sunset was imminent. It was time to get ready for our rendezvous at the top of the mountain. Athena was waiting.

Exploring Assos

While Gino was dipping into the Aegean waters, I wandered around this tiny tranquil town.

At one end it seemed more like a resort

Looks inviting!

Away from the water, there were still eye-catching images to intrigue me.

Sometimes I could imagine I was in Greece

It didn’t take long to complete my explorations, and I picked my way over to the small beach at the opposite end of the town.

Several people, included some of our tour members, were basking and relaxing in or near the water. I was amused to see a man lying on a lounger reading The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo…in Turkish!

Smiling to myself, I went in search of Gino. I found him at the very end of the pier.

Behramkale

On the way back from Troy to Assos, we pulled off at a cheese store to sample various kinds of cheeses. Alp bought several large hunks of our favorites for a sunset snack during our planned evening at the Temple of Athena on top of the hill.

As we approached Assos, Jimmy veered off at Behramkale, the little hamlet at the top of the conical volcanic hill overlooking the port.

A small settlement of Anatolian families still lives in this vertical village, selling traditional handicrafts and bagged herbs to tourists from little shops that line the streets leading upwards to Athena’s temple.

We wanted to explore this little town, but first we were ready for lunch. Alp led us to a little place at the foot of the incline and we crowded in. Kale Restaurant has a lovely shaded terrace and serves up traditional Turkish food. — we were here to try the gözleme, a type of pancake.

Gozleme

This is a traditional Turkish dish made with fresh hand made pastry, hand rolled to make it flat, filled with cheese and potato or mincemeat, then sealed and cooked on a griddle. It was delicious!

A couple of people chose to try the manti, a sort of Turkish ravioli, which also looked very yummy. A few drank ayran, a cool drink made of yogurt, water, and salt. I had been looking forward to trying it, but after someone described it as very buttermilk-ish, I couldn’t stomach the thought and wimped out.

After lunch, we hiked up and down the streets of Behramkale, looking at the handicrafts and the colorful villagers selling them. I bought some lacy shawls crocheted in various colors by one of the several craggy-toothed village women who make and sell them as a cottage industry. These pretty creations hung on lines strung next to their stands, flapping in the breeze like delicate flags.

Handy seats in case you get tired of climbing

Behramkale's pretty minaret

A townsman on his way home

Our shopping expedition over, we returned to the bus for the short ride back to the Assos parking area. We had the rest of the afternoon to spend as we wished. Gino wished for the sea. But I, who can’t sit still for very long, wished for a walk.

Arrival in Assos

There wasn’t much of the day left when we arrived in Assos. The large bus swayed and lumbered down the narrow snaking road; the sea was right out there, at the bottom of a precipitous cliff that plunged straight down the hill.

The bulky bus had to park in a small lot a bit above the port. Alp told us we could leave our precious bottles of Melen wine on the bus, assuring us they would be just fine.

Although a minibus conveniently runs between the village and port, most of us preferred to simply hoof it down the rest of the steep way, taking advantage of gravity to pull our bags along. Bantering as we walked, it was but a few minutes before we caught sight of this charming seaside village.

Officially named Behramkale, this 2,000 year old village is more commonly referred to by its ancient name: Assos. It was founded by Aeolian colonists from the nearby island of Lesbos, which we could see from the top of the mountain.

In 340 B.C.E., Aristotle landed here, establishing a school of philosophy. Between 53 and 57 C.E., St. Paul purportedly visited the town during his third missionary journey through Asia Minor. Today, aside from the few permanent residents, tourists are its constant visitors.

We were anxious to explore, but at this moment more interested in scoping out our home for the next two days. Alp led us right to it: the Assos Nazlihan Hotel.

The hotels of Assos, including ours, are built of volcanic rock and once served as warehouses along the water.  Ours used to be an acorn storage house in the 1890’s. Today, it is a pretty place to spend a couple of days.

Our room was on the second floor. One of the walls was of rough stone, giving the room an appealing, characteristic look. The bathroom was pretty, especially the decorative tile and sink, and the bed looked inviting. A sitting area facing the bed looked quite comfortable.

Stepping outside our room’s door, we had a birds’ eye view directly down into the internal courtyard of the hotel. This was where breakfast would be laid out in the morning.

Hey, there's our room upstairs!

We ate our breakfasts and dinners out here next to the water

Gino gazes out to sea from these whimsical chairs in front of our hotel --
or maybe he's smiling at me!