Ancient Sardis: The Gymnasium

I had to run across a wide, weedy field to catch up with the rest of the group. They were already there, staring up at an enormous building.

The gymnasium of Sardis

It was the gymnasium that was holding their attention and as I followed their gaze,  I could see why. We stood there a long time, craning our necks to view the impressive architectural details high above.

I noticed a variety of capital designs.

Craig actually lost his head over these amazing works of art!

We followed Alp “inside” the structure, even though there was no roof. This was where the baths had once been located.

These words appeared on a stone that bordered the baths

It’s a good thing that Alp herded us back into the bus because I could easily have disappeared through this arch, following an impulse to find out what was hidden beyond.

Safely back in my bus seat, I turned the images I had just seen over and over in my mind. I had heard the name Sardis before, but never knew about this archaeological site.

Sardis was magical. I loved it. And even though the ruins on the other side of the road were more, well, ruined, I liked them best. After all, they were for Artemis.

Ancient Sardis: The Synagogue

The other part of ancient Sardis sprawls on the other side of the road. You can see it off to the right as you drive by.

On this side, the modern world isn’t all that far away.

The ruins on this side were better preserved and more varied than the ones at the foot of the Temple of Artemis. A walk down the “Marble Way” brought us past Byzantine shops, today nothing but stone remnants.

Inscriptions left behind give clues as to their former lives: a restaurant, a paint shop, an office, a hardware store. In many respects, not much has changed in society from 2,000 years ago.

Be careful when you “go” here

This Byzantine settlement even had indoor plumbing

A large and prosperous Jewish community lived here in Sardis, having arrived around 300 B.C.E.  Some believe that Sardis was actually the place referred to in the Old Testament as “Sepharad.”

We came upon the decorative ruins of an elaborate synagogue from the 200’s C.E.

Our group gathers at the edge of the synagogue

We were dazzled by the synagogue’s intricate stone mosaic floors and colorful designs in the rock walls. It was as if a relative of M.C. Escher had been here hundreds of years ago.

This almost looks like a yin yang symbol

I straggled behind to marvel at the striking details of this lovely space. The group was headed off across a wide field to an imposing structure in the distance. I was hoping they wouldn’t call for an impromptu buddy check while I dallied.

Ancient Sardis: The Temple of Artemis

After our carpet-buying experience at the Desen Halicilik Co-op in Bergama, we struck out for Izmir, arriving there early evening, a bit later than we had planned. But I’ll get back to Izmir. First, we’re jumping to Sardis, where we visited the morning after our arrival in Izmir.

It was bright and early when we struck out for ancient Sardis, about an hour’s drive from Izmir. Since we were taking off before the stores opened, Gino and I did not have a chance to check the stores for a battery charger. We were still holding out hope of finding one, although by now Gino was using the video camera very sparingly. It wouldn’t be long until the juice was totally gone.

The highway to ancient Sardis took us through pleasant scenery: olive groves, tobacco fields, and vineyards of sultanas (those large luscious raisin grapes).

Sardis is now an archaeological site sprawling on either side of the Ankara highway. But as the capital of the Kingdom of Lydia, it was one of the most important cities of the Persian Empire.

Its most renowned claim to fame was one of its monarchs, King Croesus, the first leader to mint coinage. Once one of the wealthiest persons in the world, he lends his name to the expression, “rich as Croesus.”

I really liked Sardis. It may have been my favorite place.  The setting was so peaceful. Tucked away from the road, it sits among gently undulating hills dotted with gray-green olive trees and patches of vineyards, framed by the craggy Tmolus mountains.

We spilled out of the bus and started walking towards the excavations, sidestepping scraggly chunks of marble strewn over the ground. Enormous columns standing in a clump across the field drew me like a magnet. It turned out to be the Temple of Artemis. Known as Diana in Roman mythology, Artemis is the Goddess of the hunt, of wild animals, and wilderness. She’s my favorite Goddess.

The Temple of Artemis

Commissioned by Alexander the Great in 300 BCE, this great temple to Artemis was built by the Greeks. In its hey day, it was the fourth largest Ionic temple in the world. I was happy to be standing in its sparse shadow over 2,000 years later.

There I am, humbled by the magnificence of Artemis

We were practically the only ones there. It was glorious to have the place to ourselves and absorb the tranquility of the setting without the distraction of a noisy crowd.

Standing beneath the mammoth stone columns, I pondered the remains of Artemis’ towering temple. Then I just wandered.

Colossal scrolled capitals and chunks of broken columns littered the grounds like elaborate tinker toys scattered by some ancient giant.

I made Gino stand up on one of the huge columns and pose — Hercules come to life.

Hercules.
Actually, that’s my 60-year old husband! Woo hoo!

While Gino was posing, others gathered around Alp as he explained the history of this sacred site.

Craig gets creative with his camera

Maybe this is what he saw

Before we left, several of us clambered up the hill behind the temple for an overall view of the vicinity. A 12th-century Byzantine church built atop an even older 5th-century church stood just below, further evidence that this area has been a sacred site for hundreds and hundreds of years.

Nancy and Lynne on the hill overlooking the temple

In the foreground: the remains of a 12th century Byzantine church built atop a 5th-century church

Since the ruins of Sardis are actually scattered throughout the valley, we would have to drive to the other part of the site, located a scant mile away on the other side of the highway.

On our way back to the bus, I noticed a dog lying at the entrance to the site. He was alone. He appeared content and calm, yet alert — as if he were keeping vigil. Then it struck me. Of course. Artemis’ constant companion is a dog.